The alligator never flinched.

I crept closer when my heart began beating again. The predator looked so alien, frightening and still that he might have been a prop from a dinosaur movie. His snout was blunt, his eyes small and unblinking. He was only 6 inches from the trail. I was suddenly grateful that it was made of boards and elevated.

Emilie and I had been strolling around the “Jungle Trail” nature walk at Everglades Safari Park outside of Miami. We wandered through the marsh, surrounded by lush vegetation, sawgrass, and cypress trees. Except for the distant roar of an airboat, it was silent (at least until I screamed). The alligator was a reminder that we were the intruders in the vast river of grass known as the Everglades.

After our hike, we enjoyed an alligator and wildlife nature show. The best part was the interaction between the enormous alligator called “Split Jaw” and his handler. Split Jaw came when called, and propped himself up on his handler’s leg, making odd, grumbling noises. His mouth stretched open, giving us an impressive view of the hardware inside.

The handler gently stroked Split Jaw, explaining that he was begging, just like a dog. Turns out that alligators are intelligent, sensitive animals. No alligator wrestling is ever done at the park. It stresses the animals so much it literally cuts their life spans in half. 

In the 1960s, alligator populations had dwindled to the point they were considered endangered, but thanks to enlightened conservation programs the species has made an impressive comeback. The survival of other creatures in the ecosystem is directly related to the survival of the alligator.

The highlight of our trip was our airboat ecotour into the Everglades. We stashed our loose items under the seats so they wouldn’t blow away and pushed in our earplugs. Then we hung on and took off. The boat kicked up spray; the wind and the mist from the water felt refreshing. We yelled to each other over the din of the motor, sometimes zooming over terrain that appeared too solid for a boat to cross.

Gus, our guide, was humorous, outgoing, and full of information. We admired turtles, birds and alligators, floating past aquatic plants with names like bladderwort, white water lily, spatterdock and maidencane. We visited a tropical hardwood hammock, a localized, mature, hardwood forest out in the middle of the wetlands, complete with trees that usually live in drier conditions like oak and pine.

Cheekee Indians used to live on the hammock we visited. Imagining living there gave me goose-bumps, and imagining using a primitive, dugout canoe for transportation – with my body close to the water, close to alligators that might consider me a meal – did too.

No trip to Florida is complete without a trip deep into the Everglades – and for that, you need an airboat. Ready to try it? I’ve listed contact information below.

• Bring a light jacket for the airboat ride if the weather is cool.
• You’ll be outside. I suggest you wear a baseball cap or a hat, plus sunglasses and comfortable shoes.
• Anything not glued to your body will blow off on the airboat. While this isa slight exaggeration, you’ll need to stow the hat I advised you to wear. You’ll have baskets under the airboat’s seats where you can put your stuff.
• While fun, the airboat ride is not bumpy or even slightly strenuous. If you can climb in the boat you’re probably okay to go, but if you have any doubts, ask the tour you plan to go out with for advice.
• Do NOT feed the alligators. They are wild animals with big teeth. If they lose their fear of people, they are dangerous.
• Do not harass or try to touch the alligators. See above.
• Tipping the guides is customary.

Check out the Everglades Safari Park website: http://www.evsafaripark.com/index.htm