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Appreciating Apalachicola
March 31, 2008
I don’t visit northwest Florida often enough. Even single venture makes me wonder why it’s been such a long time since my last trip through this fabulous chunk of Florida.

One of my very favorite places of all: Apalachicola. Just saying “Apalachicola” seems poetic. Right after the holidays I found myself in the Apalachicola National Estuarine Research Reserve. The numbers of native plants and animals truly impress even the most borderline nature lover. I’m talking here of 131 species of fish in the rivers, 1,300 varieties of plants and some 50 types of mammals. I’ve seen more Florida black bears hereabouts than anywhere in the state – a major treat indeed and more common with their rising populations.

I noted lots of canoers and kayakers dotting the inland regions of Apalachicola Bay, and I passed more than a few outfitters that provide eco-tours in not only the bay but also up small creeks and tributaries. If you’re into scenic pictures of sailboats as they sort of crab-walk across the Gulf wave tops, expect to load the camera with views even if just standing on the shoreline.

On this trip I didn’t head to St. George Island, but I wish I had. It’s well worth doing, especially if you simply want to travel light and rent sailboats, powerboats, kayaks or canoes when you get there. My favorite trip involves looking for seashells along the outer barrier islands and dolphin encounter cruises. Also, if you’re an oyster eater like myself (and I realize there’s no middle ground – you either love or hate eating them), you can scoff down a dozen or two served on chipped ice at various raw bars. Apalachicola Bay boasts a rich oystering history that spans 150 years, and even a few tours are offered that put you on a working oyster boat while you watch fishermen cull and harvest oysters. I really enjoy shucking my own … well, a few anyway.

A hiking favorite of mine is Tate’s Hell State Forest. The six-mile High Bluff Coastal Hiking Trail cuts through the forest and offers frequent glimpses of St. George Sound. The dwarf cypress trees so unique to this area makes it hard to believe that though only 10 to 15 feet tall, these trees are 100 to 150 years old. The boardwalk and observation tower makes it much more fun to safely admire the prairies, flatwoods and seemingly endless numbers of bird life.

I haven’t been to the St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge, which is an undeveloped island about 22 miles off Apalachicola. But I’ve heard the miles of unspoiled beaches really rewards shell collectors. I have a small collection, mostly from beaches off Bonita Springs just north of Naples.

Speaking of black bears again, there’s a new boardwalk at Bald Point State Park. At Alligator Point where Ochlockonee Bay meets Apalachee Bay, you might be lucky as I did three years ago – I briefly glimpsed a black bear, its black fur shimmering in the blotches of sunlight shining through the pines and oaks. Before leaving this area, have lunch or at least for a spell mill around the town of Apalachicola. I love the historical buildings and parks, and that old Florida feel.

For more details, visit www.anaturalescape.com.
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