This is completely unscientific but it works for me: If we go in a restaurant and a roll paper towels rests on the  table, it means the staff takes cracking and shelling seriously. And you have permission to be messy. I know right then we can look forward to a wonderful meal of local seafood.

And it happened last week in Apalachicola. As the sun headed for the horizon on the Gulf of Mexico, salt marshes along the river glowed with a golden orange light. With each step towards the docks, I inhaled the sharp tangy smell of salt and fresh water mixing in Apalachicola Bay. Shrimp boats were tied up to the dock next to Boss Oyster part of the Apalachicola River Inn.

Boss Oyster was my dinner destination, recommended by a friend. Everyone was asking to be seated on the porch, and sunset was minutes away. I looked down at the table. Yup. Paper towels. I'm in the right place.

It wasn't a messy meal that night. Although the oysters are wonderful, the season is right for soft-shelled blue crab, and I couldn't resist. I savored the moment, the meal and now the memory.

Speaking of seafood, the 45th annual Florida Seafood Festival happens in Apalachicola on Oct. 31 and Nov.1. This is the oldest seafood festival in the state with local seafood, arts and crafts, entertainment and events like the blessing of the fleet and a parade. Thousands flock to this very popular festival. (Check back later for a video report from the festival by our dining expert, Barb Freda)

In fact, Bill Spohrer, president of the Apalachicola Historical Society, recommends you start making plans NOW for next year's event. Make your hotel reservations, and plan to stay a few days.

Spohrer gave a gathering of the Florida Humanities Council (including me) a historic tour of Apalachicola. He said 200 buildings were built in the 18th century and another 100 between 1900 and 1910. Bring your walking shoes. Apalachicola is a walking town and you'll see a lot of history. I'd go back in a heartbeat.