A Quiet Retreat: Villa Nina Island Inn, Vero Beach

Just about midway between Cocoa Beach and Palm Beach is a little-known beach getaway: the Fort Pierce-Vero Beach area, sometimes called the Treasure Coast. In this quiet, relaxed community, we found the Villa Nina Island Inn.

We arrived at the Villa Nina at night, and it was hard to see much. We walked around to the pool and opened the door to the River Room (owners Glenn and Nina Rappaport had left the key for us). As my wife, Andrea, opened the door, I worried out loud, "I hope this place is good enough to write about."

"Don't worry, Stephen," she said as she stepped inside.

In front of us was a stunning swirl of white and soft blues, an eclectic mixture of the elegant and the funky.

Our room had a twelve-foot ceiling, and a king-sized bed with a white-wicker headboard and huge pillows in the shape of brightly-colored fish. There were porthole mirrors and model ships on the walls, along with hand-crafted little wooden houses. Recessed lighting, not only from the ceiling but also from the floor, cast a soft glow. Oversized white tile floors shone brightly and a Roman tub looked inviting.
One of the best surprises about Villa Nina, however, came the next morning, as we walked outside, and heard... nothing. It seemed to us the most wonderful sound in the world.

The privacy of guests is respected at the Villa Nina, and, in keeping with this, breakfast is left in your room the night before. Our room smelled wonderful from the pastries, chocolates and croissants in a silver bowl on the dining table.

And we found some thoughtful surprises in the room, as well. A bottle of champagne. A picnic basket for afternoon excursions. And a smaller basket filled with cookies, fine teas and coffees.

One of the best surprises about Villa Nina, however, came the next morning, as we walked outside, and heard... nothing. It seemed to us the most wonderful sound in the world.

The inn backs up against the deep-green vegetation of the Indian River. There's a hammock set right up against the river, and a couple of canoes for guests, as well as bikes.

Right across the street is the ocean, with a lot of dunes and very few people. Andrea and I walked along it for miles. We also walked through the adjacent Jack Island State Preserve, along a nature trail to a lookout tower, past herons, osprey, cormorants and even a few otters.

One morning we took a canoe out onto the river and the only sounds we heard were the dipping of our oars.


Romance Roundup

Here are some other great options around the state for weekend escapes at charming, small accommodations:

A Highlands House Bed & Breakfast Inn, Santa Rosa Beach
In Northwest Florida, is the pretty town of Santa Rosa Beach, and this Southern-style raised cottage. Enjoy private entrances and easy beach access, along with four-poster beds, wingback chairs, and rooms that open onto the breezy front porch, where you can sit and nurse a cool drink while waiting for the sunset. The inn is minutes away from Grayton Beach, Seaside and Destin. Beach chairs, umbrellas and bicycles are included. For information, call 850-267-0110 or visit www.ahighlandshousebbinn.com.

Bayfront Westcott House Inn, St. Augustine
Right in the heart of America's oldest city, overlooking Matanzas Bay and the Bridge of Lions, is the 1880s Victorian-styled Bayfront Westcott House Inn. Guest rooms are furnished with American and European period pieces, along with terry-cloth robes to wrap up in after a bath. Hosts Robert and Janice Graubard can arrange a few extra touches, for those so (romantically) inclined - a dozen long-stemmed roses, a spring bouquet, champagne or wine in your room, specialty baskets, and carriage rides into town. For information, call 904-824-4301, 800-513-9814 or visit www.westcotthouse.com.

The Herlong Mansion, Micanopy
The Old Florida town of Micanopy is full of real Cracker homes, antique shops and old bookshops. Ten miles south of Gainesville, it's also where you'll find the Herlong Mansion, dating back to 1845. The mansion is surrounded by old oak and pecan trees, and filled with leaded glass windows and inlaid floors of maple, oak and mahogany. Relax on a cushioned swing on the second-floor veranda. Take a soak in your private Jacuzzi or schedule an in-room massage. Call 352-466-3322 or visit www.herlong.com, for more information.

Palm Beach Historic Inn, Palm Beach
In a town of beauty and elegance, the Palm Beach Historic Inn still manages to stand out. The lobby has the ambience of an intimate European parlor. The rooms are appointed in the style you'd expect in one of the world's wealthiest towns. The inn is only one block to the beach, and two blocks to Worth Avenue's highbrow boutiques. Don't miss a chance to drive along A1A (Ocean Drive) past incredible mansions in styles ranging from Tudor to Mediterranean to Medieval Castle. Each day at the inn begins with breakfast served in your room. For information, phone 561-832-4009 or visit www.palmbeachhistoricinn.com.

Turtle Beach Resort, Siesta Key
Halfway down the Gulf Coast, on the stunning sands of Siesta Key, is the Turtle Beach Resort. Here, Gail and David Rubinfeld have created a romantic hideaway of beautiful cottages right on the water. Each suite has its own hot tub, along with more traditional trappings such as four-poster beds. You can dine al fresco on the dock, or stroll along the water's edge and listen to the seabirds call. There are complimentary kayaks, canoes, paddleboats, fishing poles and bicycles. Or rent a boat nearby. For information, phone 941-349-4554. www.turtlebeachresort.com.

Mansion House Bed & Breakfast and The Courtyard on Fifth, St. Petersburg
This inn is located in downtown St. Petersburg, within an easy walk of fine restaurants, Baywalk and the Pier. Built around 1900 by St. Petersburg's first mayor, the Mansion House is now run by Kathy and Peter Plautz. The property is actually two mansions and a carriage house surrounding a courtyard garden and a swimming pool. For information, call 727-821-9391, 800-274-7520 or visit www.mansionbandb.com.