Espresso and cold shrimp. It might not be your idea of a late-morning power breakfast, but I was in the mood. I'd been trekking through the funky streets surrounding Key West's Garrison Bite Marina, where I picked up a coconut painted with a tropical scene. I stuck it in the mail, as a postcard, for my niece and nephew in Manhattan. The shrimp and coffee called to me from the Waterfront Market - a culinary landmark in these parts. Parking myself on a stool outside, I stared at the sunlight glinting off the Atlantic, and the boats floating atop it.

There are a plethora of marinas in Key West, and, according to official census figures, roughly 30 gazillion charters. Together, they haul locals and tourists out for days of snorkeling, fishing, sunset cruises and historical sails.


Fisherman's Haven

 Key West is a fisherman's Eden. Depending on the season, in Gulf and Atlantic waters, you can catch sailfish, marlin, tuna, wahoo, mahi-mahi, cobia, tarpon, snapper, grouper and king mackerel.

Better yet, something's always biting. Just ask Captain Michael Weinhofer, owner of Compass Rose Charters. "It's not unusual to go from catching tarpon to dolphin to sailfish," he said. "That's all in one day." Compass Rose will be happy to haul you out for a light-tackle expedition. You may also want to consider motoring on the Charter Boat Linda D. Captain Bill Wickers has operated this business for more than three decades, and his father and grandfather fished Key West waters before him. Additional trips are available through companies such as Hog's Breath Fishing and Lazy Dog Outfitters and Island Adventures.

Flats fishing is a second Key West water pursuit. This activity entails sailing off in small skiffs, typically with no more than two anglers, into extremely shallow waters - maxing out at only a foot or two. You pole across the water in search of tarpon, bonefish and other creatures. Spot them by sight, and stalk them until you're within casting distance.

You can also visit the back county. During these expeditions, you'll travel to the shallow, calm waters surrounding the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. These lake-like areas prove the perfect spot for catching tarpon, snapper and barracuda. Charters such as Almost There Sportfishing and The Saltwater Angler will be happy to arrange your day.

No visit to Key West is complete without a sunset cruise. While day's end is celebrated nightly on Mallory Square, watching the sun set from the water is truly spectacular.

Just Lookin'

 Even if fishing isn't your thing, you'll find innumerable ways to enjoy Key West waters. Eco tours - giving you an opportunity to spot Keys-area marine life up close - abound.

Start with Froggie's Key West Glass Bottom Adventures. Captain Keith Holt will shuttle you and your party to the region's "dolphin playground." Situated about three miles off Key West in the Gulf of Mexico, this is a region in which an indigenous population of about 200 bottlenose dolphins congregate. Meeting these playful creatures will probably be the highlight of your trip, but, through the boat's clear bottom, you may also spot manatees and stingrays.

Those with more time to spare may consider taking a day trip - such as those offered by Sunny Days Catamarans - to the Dry Tortugas, a group of small islands about 70 miles off Key West. (They were named by Spanish explorers for their turtle-like shape. The word "dry" applies because the islands have no fresh water.) There, you'll enjoy some of the best snorkeling around.

Finally, if you prefer to steer your own craft, visit Blue Planet Kayak. Located on Boca Chica Key (just two miles from Key West), Blue Planet offers starlight tours of the region's mangrove islands and paddling tours of wildlife sanctuaries, among other trips. Spot osprey, wading birds, tarpon, stingrays and even the occasional shark.


Sailing, Sailing

 History buffs will find a sail aboard the Schooner Western Union a must-do. Launched in 1939, this National Historic Landmark wooden ship laid and maintained more than 30,000 miles of undersea telegraph cable during her 35-year career. Today, she gives visitors a chance to learn about the island's maritime heyday.

And no visit to Key West is complete without a sunset cruise. While day's end is celebrated nightly on Mallory Square, watching the sun set from the water is truly spectacular. Consider a sunset cruise on board a catamaran such as The Sailing Vessel Stars & Stripes. You'll enjoy free beer, wine, and other beverages as you watch the show.