An Hour from Miami, Find a Snorkeler's Paradise at Biscayne National

By Susannah Nesmith
Published June 22, 2011

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The fish and coral reefs that inspired the tropical palette await explorers at Biscayne National Underwater Park.

After a leisurely, 30-minute boat ride in Biscayne Bay, we were out of sight of land. The captain stopped in the crystal clear waters and barked, "Now get off my boat!"

It was time to go see what we came for – the spectacular shallow-water reefs of Biscayne National Underwater Park.

Just an hour's drive from Miami's neon skyline, the park offers snorkelers the chance to observe the landscape that inspired the tropical palette. The 207-square-mile park sits at the northern limits of the world's third largest reef system and offers twice-daily snorkeling trips, when there is sufficient demand and weather permitting.  

"It's almost like a little city," said park ranger Astrid Rybeck – if cities were painted in electric blue, fluorescent yellow, rusty orange and light lavender, with residents dressed to match.

The reef is surprisingly healthy given its proximity to a major city. That's partly owing to the fact that in 1968 Biscayne National was established as the nation's first underwater park. How much underwater? About 95 percent.

On a good day – a sunny one without much wind – the water is calm and clear, perfect for seeing the speckled parrot fish, the striped sergeant majors and schools of shimmery grunts. Some of the smaller gems are as compelling as their names: flamingo tongue snails, Christmas tree worms and mermaid's wineglasses.

More fish species have been identified here than all the mammals, amphibians, birds and reptiles found in Yellowstone or Yosemite.

And then there are the ancient corals, with their space-age looking shapes and cartoon colors. Many sit in such shallow water, snorkelers have to be careful not to accidentally touch them paddling around on the surface. The park boasts giant brain coral, swaying sea fans and a unique area of healthy Elk Horn coral.

"It's almost like a little city," said park ranger Astrid Rybeck – if cities were painted in electric blue, fluorescent yellow, rusty orange and light lavender, with residents dressed to match.

Snorkelers should also beware of the showy lionfish. They look lacy and charming, but their tentacles are venomous. The park has an active eradication program because the Indian Ocean natives are gobbling up local fish and mollusks. Rybeck said more than 500 lionfish were eliminated in a year, after finding none as recently as April 2009.

"They can clear an area of reef of small fish pretty quickly," Rybeck said.

Biscayne National also offers a Maritime Heritage tour, showcasing six of the 44 shipwrecks in the park. Most of the wrecks are reachable only to divers, but the Mandalay sits in just 12 feet of water and is perfect for snorkeling.

If You Go

• Make reservations. On weekends, the trips often fill up. Call 305-230-1100, or reserve online at biscayneunderwater.com.
• Watch the weather. Windy conditions make the trip much less fun and the boat doesn't go out in thunderstorms.
• The concession also rents kayaks and canoes if you'd like to explore the mangrove forest.
• Convoy Point has the visitors center and picnic areas. The area around Convoy Point is also popular with windsurfers.
• The park also owns the seven remaining buildings of Stiltsville, homes built on stilts in the Bay, but they are closed to the public. There is no fee to enter the park, but there is a charge to camp on Elliot Key or Boca Chita.
• Check out the park's website for more information.

Susannah Nesmith is a freelance writer based in Miami.